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Italian luxury fashion brand Prada faced criticism for releasing men’s sandals closely resembling Kolhapuri chappals. Following backlash, the brand acknowledged the Indian inspiration, raising questions on cultural appropriation and possible violation of GI tag protections.

Key Terms and Concepts

Term	Explanation
Cultural Appropriation	The uncredited or disrespectful use of elements from one culture by members of another, often dominant, culture—common in global fashion.
Kolhapuri Chappals	Traditional handmade leather sandals from Maharashtra, known for durability, intricate braiding, and T-strap design. Originated in the 12th–13th century.
GI Tag (Geographical Indication)	A legal tag identifying products with specific regional origin and qualities; protects traditional knowledge and ensures exclusive usage rights to producers from that region.
Vegetable-Tanned Leather	Eco-friendly leather tanned using natural materials like tree bark; used in traditional Kolhapuri sandals.
DPIIT	Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade, under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, which administers GI tag registration and regulation in India.

Features of Kolhapuri Chappals

Aspect	Details
Origin	Kolhapur and nearby districts (Sangli, Satara, Solapur) in Maharashtra; Karnataka also included under GI tag.
History	Dates back to 12th–13th century; originally crafted for royalty.
Material	Made from vegetable-tanned leather (cow, buffalo, goat), with no nails or synthetic parts.
Design	T-strap style, open toe, intricate braiding, mostly in natural brown hues.
GI Status	Recognized in 2019; protects against imitation and allows only authorised regional producers to use the name.
Cultural Value	A symbol of India’s leather-crafting tradition, representing local identity, heritage, and artisan livelihood.

In a Nutshell (Memory Code: KOLHA-PRADA)

K – Kolhapuri craft heritage
O – Origin in Maharashtra-Karnataka
L – Leather tanned with vegetables
H – Handcrafted with no synthetic input
A – Artisan rights under GI tag
P – Prada’s global design fallout
R – Recognition of cultural inspiration
A – Appropriation debate in fashion
D – DPIIT oversees GI protection
A – Authenticity vs imitation concern

UPSC Prelims Practice Questions

1. What is the key benefit of a Geographical Indication (GI) tag?
   a) Allows global manufacturing of the product
   b) Protects trade secrets of artisans
   c) Grants exclusive usage rights to producers from the origin region
   d) Exempts products from taxes
2. Kolhapuri chappals are traditionally made using:
   a) Synthetic rubber and glue
   b) Metal nails and goat skin
   c) Vegetable-tanned leather without synthetic materials
   d) Machine-processed leather
3. Which of the following organizations administers the GI tag regime in India?
   a) Ministry of Culture
   b) DPIIT, Ministry of Commerce and Industry
   c) NITI Aayog
   d) Ministry of MSMEs

Mains Practice Questions

1. Examine the implications of cultural appropriation in the global fashion industry with reference to India’s traditional crafts.
2. Discuss the significance of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in preserving India’s cultural heritage and protecting artisan livelihoods.

Prelims Answer Key and Explanation

Qn	Answer	Explanation
1	c)	GI tags restrict usage to registered producers from the region, preventing unauthorized replication.
2	c)	Kolhapuris are handcrafted using eco-friendly vegetable-tanned leather without synthetic components.
3	b)	The GI tag regime is administered by DPIIT under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry.